It’s one thing to look at a weather report, and it is another to see and hear it in action.
This morning Nims posted the latest, and also confirmed his date of October 29 for the summit attempt – which is hopefully in better conditions than this.
And this is only from Camp 1.
He also mentions an avalanche, a real danger of course on the lower angled slopes. In heading out of Camp 1 and up towards towards Camp 2, the easier angled slopes are also right in the danger zone for more of the same and the recent snow will not be helping.
They have also confirmed a date for their summit push, and mention climbing from Camp 3 on the exposed Col that starts the final ridge to the summit. At 7,400 meters it puts one in pretty close proximity to the summit, but it is also highly exposed.
Looking well bundled up, I guess that is a given at this time of year, Nims announces the summit day to complete his quest is set for 29 October. Just in time to get back down for Halloween it seems.
Right now, 29 October does look optimal on the weather chart, providing time to get in position as the weather improves, then go for the summit on the day forecast to have the lowest winds. Himalayan climbing pretty much always starts some time the night before, so the Monday night/Tuesday morning time is critical.