Perhaps you have climbed Everest, or Denali – and you want to finish up the 7 summits in style on Mount Vinson. How hard can it be? After all it is lower, quicker and has a success rate of around 95%.
All that is true, but there are also some very distinct differences, some important factors that make Vinson truly unique.
After all, it is also the coldest, driest, windiest and overall average highest continent you will visit. Yes, a list of superlatives, but Antarctica at times is well deserving of them.
The eternal light in the sky, the weather, the cold, the very cold, and the wind
From the time you arrive, until you depart, you will have 24-hour sunshine. For some, a blessing. For others, those funny looking sleep masks from the plane may actually be useful. And eternal sunshine, while seemingly warming, can also be shaded by clouds or the ridges of Vinson you climb alongside in your way up the route.
When the sun goes behind the hill the temperature plummets, just like when the sun dips below the horizon on Everest and you go from cozy to freezing in just a few minutes.
You’ll want to time your ascent carefully, within those windows of sunshine. But fortunately you will never be in the dark, like on that long summit night on Everest or those predawn starts up through the ice fall. The one thing you can scratch from your kit list for Vinson is a headlamp.
The weather, like any mountain, can be unpredictable – at times highly localized and including fog, wind and more recently, even significant snowfall. The intense cold earlier in the season, or high on the mountain, approaching the magic minus 40 where both fahrenheit and celsius meet, that with some added wind, will very quickly induce frostbite to any exposed skin. Face masks are essential. Any change of clothing needs to be planned in advance, well before you are cold or think you need to change. The extremes of temperature can easily equal the worst, if not more so, temperatures on Everest. Frostbite is perhaps easier and quicker to get on Vinson than any other peak, so much so that after one season, Dr. Chris Imray, an acclaimed specialist and 7 summiter in his own right, and I put together an article on our frostbite findings and recommendations.
Living in minus 30 celsius at High Camp and above on Vinson, the physics that affect metal, batteries, zippers and velcro seem to change. Plastic can shatter or stick, zipper teeth fall out or unravel, or in the case of batteries, cease working almost instantaneously. And be prepared for all the bristles to suddenly fall from your toothbrush. Good to bring along a spare just in case.
Summit photos on a cold day can prove challenging and more than one team has tagged the top and turned immediately to their descent on a cold, windy day.
At 16,050 feet (4,892 meters) Vinson can seem higher, similar to Denali due to its location in the polar regions. Climbers will often move quite quickly from their home to Punta Arenas, Chile, onto the Ilyushin 76, into Union glacier, have a quick stop for lunch and then be flown another hour over to Vinson Base Camp.
One minute you seem to be checking your luggage through Santiago, and the next you are helping pitch a tent in a windstorm with your baggage tags frozen to your zippers.
The adjustment for travel, from central heating and restaurants to life on the ice can be quite abrupt. The 24 hour sunshine, the white in every direction, the expanse and the cold can be overwhelming on a tired mind and body – Antarctica is the only continent that people cannot live on without outside resources and can feel very remote.
While the Khumbu also seems to be Wi-Fi equipped at every stop, and Everest Base Camp without email now unheard of, Antarctica is limited to Sat. phones. You will not be surfing the net from your tent or be nearly as frequently in touch with family and friends at home.
With two camps on Vinson, the altitude can be adjusted to at a reasonable pace, the heights reached in a practical manner. When the sun goes behind the hills, be ready for that temperature plummet – pitching a tent in the shade can be a very chilling experience. Working without gloves is pretty much impossible.
As you start up the mountain, fortunately the crevasses are better behaved and less of the behemouth variety you find on Denali, or with the instability of the Khumbu icefall.
None-the-less, crevasses are certainly present and prominent and all travel on the mountain is done roped up, besides one section of several 100 meters of fixed ropes.
Unlike just following the miles of fixed ropes on Everest, you will actually carry and use your ice axe. The climbing will all be done with your team roped together, pulling sleds from Base to Low Camp, then heavier carries with packs up to High Camp, and finally a much lighter pack to the summit.
Like most of the big mountains, Camelbaks and hydration systems with tubes all freeze and water needs be close to your body – even a thermos won’t be warm for long on a summit day in Antarctica.
With no Sherpa’s to carry your gear, group equipment, including tents, stoves, fuel and food will be carried by your group. So sleds and packs will generally be far heavier than on Everest, and the pitching of tents and cooking of food will be more of a shared activity.
With ALE clients who book directly, tents, group gear and food is usually in place so loads consist of personal equipment and perhaps some food, with set camps and kitchens already in place, from Base Camp all the way through to High Camp. If you are with an independently guided group, pick one with a strong guide!
If anything, one of the biggest differences between Everest and Vinson is the aura and atmosphere. There are incredible vistas from start to finish. Just setting foot in Antarctica is a real adventure in itself – not to mention the flight on the Iluyshin to get there.
And while there are certainly people there, less than 20% of the numbers who normally summit Everest in a year will be climbing, spread over 2 months, so you will be much more alone and certainly won’t be standing in line.
You’ll be carrying bigger packs, but at the same time feel more self-sufficient, as your team will climb, cook and camp together, from Base Camp to the summit.
The cold at some point could well be the coldest cold you will have ever experienced on any climb, or perhaps anywhere in the planet and everyone needs to be prepared for that.
The unspoken part, of climbing in a white, icy and pure environment, of ascending with a small team, of looking out over the top of the continent towards the South Pole, may well remind you just why you started this adventure of the 7 summits in the first place.
In a sentence, Vinson is potentially colder, you’ll have little access to the outside world, you will carry a bigger pack and you will climb as a rope team with real mountaineering skills needed.
Hopefully it will also be the most memorable of your 7 summits.